Scrambling - Snowdonia

27-30 October 2016

This was our late, short holiday in Snowdonia. We were lucky enough to pick last few warm days of October for this trip. Crib Goch ridge was our main objective. I would be lying if  I said I was very keen on doing it but Magda felt quite the opposite. The reason for being a bit apprehensive was the expectation of crowded route and also probably I was just anxious (as it turned out later totally unnecessarily). How am I going to react to the famous exposure?

Somewhere on A628

We set off about 9am on Thursday, visited Go Outdoors in Stockport on our way and parked near the Ogwen Cottage at about 1pm. It was too early to drive to the campsite and too late to do anything challenging. Being aware of gusts up to 46mph waiting for us at the top of Tryfan we went for an easier south ridge approach. Initially, there was a bit of a drizzle but it soon went away. My intention was to walk to the Bwlch Tryfan first but we drifted to the left i.e. east too early and ended up on a scree slope leading to the col between the Far South Peak and the South Peak of Tryfan.

From there we scrambled on a wide ridge, trying to choose a route that would be both interesting enough for us but also within our abilities. The main difficulty was the wind. Gusts were strong enough to knock one to the ground.

The reward was in the views from the summit. Fast-moving clouds were hitting the mountain from the west revealing the Glyders from time to time and there was a lonely gliding crow above Adam and Eve.

We came down pretty much the same way, scrambled to the top of the Far South Peak this time, had a good look at Bristly Ridge which we wanted to scramble one day as well and headed back to the car park.

After a short drive, just before dark, we arrived at Llyn Gwynant campsite. As I was hoping there were only a few tents around. This is what I wanted, peace and quiet.

This evening instead of cooking we went for an excellent vegetarian (in my case) and vegan (in case of Magda) wood-fired pizzas from Jones' Pizza.

Friday was supposed to be wet but much less windy. Saturday forecast was better so the decision was made to tackle Crib Goch on that day. Of course, as soon as it briefly stopped raining on Friday morning I felt like it would be a wasted day not to do anything so we drove to the car park near Little Tryfan to see if its grade 3 ridge scramble is within our reach. Partly due to lack of confidence, partly due to the fact that the rock was wet and drizzle persisted we only ended up walking to the Heather Terrace and back. We were contemplating Bristly Ridge scramble but decided to leave it for another day. After visiting a few outdoor shops in Llanberis including Joe Brown's we spent a nice evening by the bonfire at the campsite.

On Saturday, after finding out that Pen-y-Pass car park was full (not surprising really especially we were there around 9am) we parked near Pen y Gwryd hotel and walked to the Pen-y-Pass using a much safer path, running parallel to A4086. I bet that walking on A4086 is more dangerous than walking on Crib Goch.

Low-level clouds meant one thing: no views from the ridge. At least it wasn't windy.

We walked to the start of the Crib Goch route, scrambled up the East Ridge, Main Ridge, Crib Y Ddysgl, reached Garnedd Ugain and walked to the top of Snowdon (after some hesitation, crowds again).

Due to limited visibility on Crib Goch the exposure was greatly reduced. Also, there were a few other persons in front of us dictating tempo. I think we will have to come back when the visibility is better, possibly to complete Snowdon Horshoe.

Starting from Crib Y Ddysgl the situation changed. The clouds were now...below us.

The views were absolutely stunning. For the first time ever I could see the Snowdon summit and later could see something from the Snowdon summit as well.

We experienced 'the ghost of the mountain' effect accompanied by the 'helo' like rings of a glory number of times whilst on the ridge. This was the second time this ever happened to me.

Initially, I simply wanted to walk back via the Pyg Track without visiting Snowdon but this changed and we quickly meandered through the crowds to the summit. This was one of a few last days of the Cafe being opened so we took advantage of it. Sitting outside the Cafe we admired the inversion.

Returning via the Pyg Track was a bit tedious but descending any mountain usually is, at least in my opinion. Despite this morale was high.

If you ever park near Pen y Gwryd hotel remember to pay for the car park. We saw a few cars with parking tickets behind the wipers.

We made it to the campsite after 6pm so it was already dark. I was glad that we weren't driving back home on the same day as we had a relaxing evening by the bonfire again. Packing and driving home got postponed to Sunday.

ViewRanger summary:
Start time: 09:24:11
End time: 17:56:36
Height gain: 1,253m
Height loss: 1.255m
Lenght: 14.5km
Duration: 8:32:25 (including drink at the Snowdon Cafe ;)

Climbing - Scugdale

Sunday, 23 October 2016

Shortly after my first outdoor climbing experience, I had the opportunity to practice even more under the eye of the same experienced friend. He proposed Scugdale as this location wasn't too far from where he lives, it was also suitable for me and I am always eager to discover new places.

The drive from Barnsley was no more than 1.5h. There are only a few parking spaces in muddy lay-bys near the crags. Straight away I knew that this was a quiet place, opposite to busy Stanage Popular. This day was special for Radek as he was celebrating his birthday. There were four people interested in climbing on that day and a few of Radek's friends who would come over later to join this unusual birthday party.

On our way to Scugdale

We met at 11am. There was plenty of showers during the day and I was glad that Radek brought a tarp shelter with him. This simple thing saved the day as we could protect all our kit from the rain and attempt to climb between outbursts of rain.

Magda and I practised setting up and equalizing anchors at the bottom of the crag. Later we also abseiled from the top of the 10 m wall. All very valuable exercises. If anybody is afraid of stepping over the edge of the crag when getting ready to abseil, heavy rain certainly is going to help!

Magda still has a lot to learn

There was only one actual climb Magda and I did. We set up top rope anchor at Blaeberry Crack (Diff) and despite top-roping, I needed two goes at it.

Ready for climbing. Need to remember to use rope protector next time

What's important though is that I gained confidence that I would be able to rig a top rope on my own.

Scugdale and our top rope anchor setup

Thanks to the good company and preparation (shelter) this was a great day despite the weather playing tricks. We are also glad we discovered Scugdale. It is a really beautiful valley and the place seems quiet which is a big bonus for me as I don't feel comfortable with others watching what I am doing just yet. It is also less likely we would be upsetting people by blocking routes if there is simply not many climbers around.

Climbing - Stanage Edge

Saturday-Sunday, 8-9 October 2016

My first attempt at climbing outdoors. The trip was organized by a friend who gathered twelve individuals and stationed them in The Reckoning House near Bakewell. He was kind enough to share his knowledge and experience with a few of us who wanted to get introduced to climbing outdoors in particular trad climbing. Others spent this weekend running or cycling (Monsal Cycle Trail added to my to-do list).

Apart from the lot sleeping in the Bunkhouse, there were a few people who joined us during the day on Saturday and Sunday.

The Reckoning House Bunkhouse

The weather was kind again. Maybe it was a bit chilly but remained mostly dry.

We reached the crags at about 11am and spent most of the day learning about climbing gear, knots etc.

'Pilgrims' on the way to 'Mecca'. My green, indestructible Taternik backpack is almost 20 years old.

We also practised some self-rescue techniques which involved learning how to escape the belay. This was something new for me and I must admit, at the time I did not appreciate how useful this could be. At late afternoon we reached the point we felt like climbing. Since most of us were beginners we went for top roping on route graded VDiff called Robin's Hood Staircase. I think that apart from top roping (cheat number 1) we also cheated by starting the climb further to the right than intended by the guidebook. This lowered the grade.

This is how it's done - Robin's Hood Staircase

Following day we came back to Stanage Popular, this time planning to tackle something on Mantlepiece Buttress. I top roped (again!) Mantlepiece Crack (Diff) and lead (yes!) Zip Crack (Mod). I did make a couple of mistakes in setting up a belay at the top of Zip Crack but luckily enough had somebody experienced who pointed out what I did wrong. One of the mistakes was to put a sling around a boulder which was clearly too small and could actually be moved by a single person! Well, at least I had two other anchors and will not make this mistake again. This was the whole point of doing something on my own rather than climbing using top rope set up by somebody else anyway. My intention is to be self-efficient in mountaineering at the end of the day, so yes as long as I'm learning, please criticize!

I also (unsuccessfully, despite top roping) attempted Small Crack (VDiff). My lack of technique and strength became apparent here.

There were quite a few climbers around. Shouldn't have been surprised really, given this was a dry Sunday day and we were in the most popular part of Stanage Edge.

A shower and inevitability of our instructor having to drive back home ended the adventure.

We drove to Bakewell for a coffee (or a pint in my case). I must admit that I have never been to Bakewell before despite living no more than an hour's drive from there. Can certainly recommend the place and if you're there remember to get some Bakewell Tart.