It might sound weird but the closer it was getting to the end of summer 2017 the more pressure I felt that I need to go on holiday. Not that I didn't want to go but I don't really like organizing anything and Magda had still not fully recovered from her illness. Also for the last few years, it was quite simple: we went somewhere where there were mountains and hiked but now, what do I do if my knees are falling apart? Cycling has always been a second choice outdoor activity for me but now I have decided to cycle more to strengthen my leg muscles without putting so much pressure on the joints. I had roof bars installed on our old Skoda, bought myself roof mounted bike carriers and this opened the door to new possibilities. Suddenly we were able to cycle in any location we wanted. So where do we go? South Wales! There is no sarcasm there at all. Well, maybe a little because I can see that not many people from England would rank this destination highly. They would rather go somewhere more exotic I guess. For me, Great Britain is still exciting enough and most of the places locals would consider boring for me are worth consideration.
We have been to Snowdonia many times before but never anywhere in the south of Wales so it was high time we rectified this. I decided to split the week between two locations: Talybont Reservoir in the Brecon Beacons and Manorbier in Pembrokeshire. I was initially hoping to try cycle touring and maybe even throw in some wild camping but I wasn't ready for it yet and didn't feel it would be ok to put Magda through this. In result we camped near two hostels as they offered bike storage. We drove to YHA Brecon Beacons Danywenallt on Sunday. The day was overcast and by the time we got to Talybont Reservoir, it started to drizzle. We weren't put off, found a good camping spot under a tree and had a barbecue.
Following day (Monday) the weather looked more promising and we cycled to Brecon along Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal. Red-brown colour of the water looked odd to me and until now I am not sure where it is coming from. Is it from mudstone or from old red sandstone, or from both?
On the way back we stayed on country roads and I was happy to confirm that this location was a good choice for cycling. Not much traffic, lots of narrow, undulated, tarmacked roads suitable for different types of bicycles.
30km trip wasn't enough for us and after dinner, we cycled clockwise around Talybont Reservoir which added only 16km but included a decent climb.
On Tuesday morning as we were waiting for the clouds to clear we weren't in a hurry and postponed climbing Pen y Fan until afternoon. The problem was when it came to starting the car it wouldn't start. This was a bit of a surprise because our old trusty Skoda until this point was, well...trusty. I ended up calling RAC and having to pay for a new battery. We still caught some sun that day standing on the dam waiting for RAC van to arrive. Car back in order allowed us to drive to the nearby waterfalls in the evening.
Following day (Monday) the weather looked more promising and we cycled to Brecon along Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal. Red-brown colour of the water looked odd to me and until now I am not sure where it is coming from. Is it from mudstone or from old red sandstone, or from both?
On the way back we stayed on country roads and I was happy to confirm that this location was a good choice for cycling. Not much traffic, lots of narrow, undulated, tarmacked roads suitable for different types of bicycles.
One of the minor roads on the way from Brecon to Talybont-on-Usk |
Talybont Reservoir during a late summer evening |
We topped the day with a short walk beside the reservoir and picked some wild mushrooms. I know this is not something very popular in the UK but I can recognize a few edible varieties and it was hard to resist. Mushrooms were to be consumed for breakfast the following day.
Indeed on Wednesday morning, we had scrambled eggs with wild mushrooms. Since I'm still alive writing this more than a year after the event I must have recognized them correctly.
After breakfast, we drove to the small car park near Torpantau station where we actually saw a group of passengers getting off the train. For them, this was the end of the trip but for us only the beginning. The aim was to walk to the top of Pen y Fan more or less following the Pen y Fan Horseshoe walk description from www.gps-routes.co.uk but ideally to include Fan y Big as well and do it anticlockwise.
After breakfast, we drove to the small car park near Torpantau station where we actually saw a group of passengers getting off the train. For them, this was the end of the trip but for us only the beginning. The aim was to walk to the top of Pen y Fan more or less following the Pen y Fan Horseshoe walk description from www.gps-routes.co.uk but ideally to include Fan y Big as well and do it anticlockwise.
Taf Fechan Forest |
First glimpse of Corn Du, Pen y Fan and Cribyn |
Summit of Corn Du with Pen Y Fan in the background |
After Pen Y Fan and Corn Du summits, we continued walking south-east on the Craig Fan Ddu ridge and spotted a gliding red kite. At some point, we started climbing down towards the Neuadd Reservoir. Path sides were covered with some kind of white mesh which from the distance looked like snow. I'm guessing its purpose is to slow down erosion.
View towards Neuadd Reservoir |
We topped off the day with a tasty meal and a pint in Gurkha Corner restaurant in Brecon.
YHA Manorbier felt more modern than the previous hostel. Our bikes got placed in the storage room in the main building rather than the shed. The kitchen was bigger and despite the summer school holiday, we didn't have a problem finding enough space for us. After pitching our tent and unpacking we walked to the Church Dove Cove which is located only a few hundred yards away from the hostel. We immediately liked the place with its small beach and dramatic rock formations resembling doorways of a church.
Skrinkle Haven beach and Church Door Cove |
Pembrokeshire Coast Path near Manorbier |
Sunny Saturday became cycling Saturday. The 40km loop included Manorbier, Freshwater East, Stackpole and Pembroke.
Magda looking towards Manorbier Bay |
I remembered that day as hot and sunny and it ended on the Church Dove beach.
Steps leading to Church Dove beach |
We had a safe journey back home on Sunday and I will remember South Wales as a great place for cycling and walking holiday.